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<title>The Business of Luxury</title>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/</link>
<description>Read the business of luxury blog to stay updated on luxury fashion and lifestyles. Learn about luxury goods and luxury tour companies from the best luxury blogs.</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 2008</copyright>
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<title>Global Wealth Down in 2008</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>The extremely rich don't always get extremely richer. According to a new report from the <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=135794">Boston Consulting Group</a>, global assets under management (AuM) are estimated to shrink 8% from 2007 to 2008. Victor Aerni, a partner in BCG's Zurich office and co-author of the 2008 Global Wealth report said that "in 2006-07, there was approximately $109.5 trillion AuM. Our estimates for 2008 is that the market has shrunk and valuations have come down to around $100 trillion. We don't see it growing again this year." </p>

<p>Put another way that means the world lost approximately <em>three</em> times the 2007 U.S. federal budget.</p>

<p>In fact, the revision is even more dramatic given that the report had originally projected that global AuM would reach a record $113.2 trillion. </p>

<p>Aerni, however, emphasized that BCG is bullish in the long term and is "confident that the global economy will come back as it did after the financial crisis of 2001." BCG predicts that global AuM in 2012 will reach an astonishing $138.3 trillion.</p>

<p>One of the more interesting facts presented by BCG is that while the U.S. has far and away the most millionaire households, in 2007 Europe had the strongest growth in millionaire households. From 2002 to 2007, the number of millionaire households in Europe grew 19.1%, whereas in the U.S. it grew 10.2%. For the purpose of the report BCG included the fast-growing regions of Russia and Eastern Europe within Europe.</p>

<p>The region with the second-greatest growth was Latin America, which posted a 15.8% jump in household with more than $1 million in investable assets. </p>

<p>Moreover, there are many markets that are seeing a surge in investable assets. Brazil grew 45.2% between 2006 and 2007, followed by Poland, China, Slovakia and Chile. </p>

<p>The takeaway is that despite the global credit crunch and economic spanking nearly everyone seems to be taking there is still enormous amounts of wealth out there. Let's just hope we don't see too many more years when global AuM sheds more than $10 trillion.</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/09/the_rich_dont_a.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/09/the_rich_dont_a.html</guid>
<category>Global Wealth</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 04 Sep 2008 17:16:21 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Is Luxury Market Coming or Going?</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>It's easy to see why people might be a little confused about the state of the luxury market these days. In addition to my other duties here at Businessweek.com, I am also (shameless plug) participating in our new beta community site, the <a href="http://bx.businessweek.com/">Business Week Business Exchange</a>. The idea is that participants, both BW staff and anyone else who wants to, can create and maintain their own mini sites on virtually any business-related topic one can dream up and encourage other people to add content and comments. One of my topics, surprise, is <a href="http://bx.businessweek.com/luxury-retailing/">Luxury Retailing</a>. (Check it out, it's pretty cool.) </p>

<p>Anyhow, the really useful thing is that in the months I have been doing this I have been reading practically every luxury retailing-related news story printed in English on the net. But, of course, when one reads so much about a single topic one inevitably encounters many different opinions and quite a lot of contradictions. Which takes me, finally, to the subject of this post: Is the luxury retail market in trouble or not? </p>

<p>According to the left-leaning folks at England's <em>Guardian</em> newspaper, it is in deep designer doo doo. A story on August 31, "<a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2008/aug/31/retail1">Luxury brands suffer as rich guard their millions</a>" implies that in London shops such as Armani, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, De Beers and Asprey are seeing a big fall-off in business, a fall-off that will only continue to get worse because there's no way that the uptake in business from developing markets such as Russia, China, et al, can offset the loss in revenue from mature markets like the U.S. Ugh. It looks pretty bad for $5,000 handbag makers.</p>

<p>But wait! Reuters, who keep its political views pretty well under wraps, has a different take. In a <a href="http://www.reuters.com/article/marketsNews/idUSLT38028920080829">story that appeared on August 29</a>, the writer says that "luxury brands show no sign of a let-up in demand." Moreover, as the article points out: "France's Hermes (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=HRMS.PA">HRMS</a>), Gucci (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=GUCG">GUCG</a>) and Italy's Tod's (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=TODGF.PK">TODGF</a>) all published earnings that topped or met market expectations on the back of impressive double-digit sales growth in the first half."</p>

<p>Who to believe?</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/09/its_easy_to_see.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/09/its_easy_to_see.html</guid>
<category>Global Wealth</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 02 Sep 2008 16:42:09 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Wine Spectator: Busted</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I like the Wine Spectator. It's a good magazine that has a lot of very serious wine experts and journalists on staff. However, some of them are probably pretty ticked off at the business side this week because it recently came to light in the blog <a href="http://osterialintrepido.wordpress.com/2008/08/15/what-does-it-take-to-get-a-wine-spectator-award-of-excellence/">Osteria L’Intrepido di Milano</a> that the magazine's Award of Excellence was given to a non-existant restaurant, which doesn't look too good. (The award has since been removed.) I admire the hell out of the blogger who did this but I do feel badly for the edit folks at WS. If my experience with the magazine world is anything to go by--and I could be wrong--I'll bet that these "Awards of Excellence" has nothing to do with the edit side and that it was the business side that dreamed up this stunt as a way to generate extra revenue. That's because in order to be nominated restaurants are required to submit, in addition to the application and a wine list, a $250 fee. Now, that's not exactly big money but no self-respecting journalist would take money to make an award. That's a big Bozo no-no and we all know it. If a restaurant or baseball player or movie receives a good ranking from a publication, web site or blog, it should be entirely on its own merit and the result of reporting. Moreover, this whole flap raises the question of why no one bothered to even call the restaurant to verify the details. A trained journalist would have done so immediately and, smelling a rat, put the kibosh on it. But that clearly didn't happen. Therefore, it seems likely to me that some desk flunky deposited the check and ticked off the right box before opening the next application letter. At a time when the "Chinese wall" between edit and business is becoming even more porous, this serves as a good reminder that a magazine's brand rises and falls with its editorial and that other forces tinker with it at their peril.</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/busted.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/busted.html</guid>
<category>The Booze Biz</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 14:15:32 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Hermes&apos; $490 Plush Toy. C&apos;est Ridicule!</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img alt="hermeshorsebabygift.jpg" src="/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/hermeshorsebabygift.jpg" width="534" height="476" /><br />
<em>Just what to give a spoiled brat.</em></p>

<p>Like many people, I thought the over-the-top conspicuous consumption that defined the last few years was over. In the wake of our sinking economy, even the wealthy are learning to draw in their horns and keep a more modest profile. That's why the news that French luxury house Hermes (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=hrms">HRMS</a>) has just uncorralled a $490 plush toy horse just seem so, um, gauche. </p>

<p>Don't get me wrong. I am a big fan of Hermes and applaud well-made luxurious items that are designed to be timeless as well as useful. But, I mean, $490 for a little toy horse? This really raises my hackles. It would have been vulgar a few years ago but now it's just downright offensive. Barf. </p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/hermes_490_plus.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/hermes_490_plus.html</guid>
<category>Ostentatious Display</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 10:38:57 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>The Affluence Myth</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Great <a href="http://money.cnn.com/2008/08/18/news/economy/Colvin_next_credit_crunch.fortune/index.htm?section=money_topstories">column today </a>by Geoff Colvin at Fortune. In it he writes that the "standard-of-living bubble" may be about to pop. The reason? That in the wake of the housing bust--and all the other pain the global economy has been subjected to--the next shoe is about to drop. Namely, credit card debt spiked as the real estate market tanked. But now the credit card companies are going to find it harder to securitize all that massive debt, and will be forced to raise rates and tighten standards. </p>

<p>That means consumers are going to find it much harder to keep on whipping out the Visa to pay for things they can't afford. He points out the affluence experienced by most Americans over the past years was illusory and that in fact the average inflation-adjusted total pay of most of us never increased even though everyone felt rich. As he puts it so well: "Our easy access to plastic is about to dry up - and with it our ability to fake living the good life."</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/the_affluence_m.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/the_affluence_m.html</guid>
<category>Wealth Watch</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 20 Aug 2008 17:50:18 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Saks&apos; Stumble No Surprise</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Saks (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=SKS">SKS</a>) just reported a wider second quarter loss. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that I am not surprised. No, not because the U.S. economy is shrinking and the dollar is getting sand kicked on it by a pumped-up euro. The reason is that while Saks positions itself as a luxury brand it just isn't quite luxurious--or global--enough.</p>

<p>Sure, Saks sells <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=7902889">Prada</a>, <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=1350662">Jimmy Choo</a>, <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=4154853">Oscar de la Renta </a>and a host of other big-name labels but it also sells a lot of other, less well-known brands across a wide range of price points. But unlike brands such as Hermes (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=hrms">HRMS</a>) or <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=32901405">Manolo Blahnik </a>(neither of which are sold at Saks), it tries to appeal to too wide an audience. That might have worked when the economy, artificially pumped up by a booming housing market and cheap credit, was roaring along because many of its middle-income customers felt comfortable buying more than they could afford. No longer. </p>

<p>To compound matters, Saks, like many other department stores, became over-dependent on customers who used inhouse charge cards to pay for their merchandise. And believe me, when belts get tightened the first thing many people ignore or choose to pay the bare minimum on is their inhouse charge cards. So that pool of customers has shrunk considerably. </p>

<p>And while many luxury brands, such as the aforementioned Hermes or Jimmy Choo, have actively expanded their reach into developing markets such as Russia and India, Saks remains a purely U.S. play. This has hurt Saks because it is these developing markets that are spurring much of the revenue growth in the luxury fashion and accessories business these days. Another problem, albeit a more psychological one, is that even when Euro-laden shoppers hit U.S. stores they are less inclined to hit the big department stores. The reason? In my opinion it is simply because most shoppers would rather have a shopping bag or a shoe box that says 'Chanel' than a bag or box that says 'Saks,' which has little overseas brand resonance. If one is going on a shopping spree, one wants as much cachet as possible to go with their new purchases. </p>

<p>The last and possibly biggest problem with Saks announcing a wider loss and 3.5% revenue drop-off to $669.2 million is that much of the department store world works on consignment. Company buyers place orders with designers in advance of each season. If the store fails to sell what it orders, that means that it takes longer for the designers to get paid. That in turn makes the designers more wary about working with the store in the future because they have their own bills to pay too. And if Saks suddenly finds itself unable to offer the range or chic its remaining customers expect, they will ultimately go elsewhere. Of course, Saks has been around a long time and has weathered worse storms, but it would seem that if they haven't already, they may want to start looking at commercial space in Shangai and Moscow.</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/saks_just_repor.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/saks_just_repor.html</guid>
<category>Fashion Business</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 19 Aug 2008 15:27:53 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Estee Lauder Benefits From Weak Dollar</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Like nearly every other U.S.-based luxury goods company Estee Lauder (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=el&x=13&y=15">EL</a>) is benefiting from a weak dollar and strong overseas sales. The New York cosmetics company announced Thursday that profits rose 36% in the fiscal fourth quarter, topping Wall Street expectations. On a conference call with analysts, CEO Wiliam Lauder, grandson of the eponymous founder, said that 59% of total sales came from outside the U.S., compared with 54% a year ago. </p>

<p>Sales in Europe, the Middle East, Africa and Asia-Pacifc increased 21 percent. And while sales are down in North America and parts of Europe, emerging markets, such as Russia, Turkey and Eastern Europe are positioned for growth. </p>

<p>This must come as more good news to shareholders who have seen the company perform well over the past few years. On Thursday the stock price closed up 13.99% to $51.25. In addition to its flagship brand, it also owns Clinique, Aveda, M-A-C and Bobbi Brown. Even better, the company said that it expects sales to rise between 6% and 8% in constant currency, which implies sales between $8.39 billion and $8.54 billion, and expects profit between $2.57 to $2.72 per share.</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/estee_lauder_be.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/08/estee_lauder_be.html</guid>
<category>Fashion Business</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:15:29 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Jil Sander for Sale--Again?</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Blogger Diedre Woollard over at <a href="http://www.luxist.com/">Luxist</a> has a <a href="http://www.luxist.com/2008/07/30/jil-sander-fashion-line-up-for-sale-again/">post</a> today that German fashion house Jil Sander could be for sale--again. </p>

<p>It's been a rough couple of years for the label. Founded in 1968 by Jil Sander, it became famous for its minimalist designs and palette, which women found to be stylish, practical and flattering. Even though the company had gone public on the Frankfort exchange in 1989, Sander realized that to keep growing the brand she would need deeper pockets and so in 1999 sold 75% of the company to Milanese fashion giant <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=7902889">Prada</a>. But management and creative differences with Prada CEO <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/private/person.asp?personId=25055459">Patrizio Bertelli </a>--and husband of the company founder's grand-daughter and chief designer Miuccia Prada--led to Sander leaving the company and without Sander the label suffered. When Prada sold it to London-based British private equity firm, <a href="http://www.changecapitalpartners.com/home/">Change Capital Partners</a> in February 2006 for an estimated $120 million, the label was heavily in debt and a shadow of its former self. </p>

<p>Today Jil Sander is in better shape and CCP is reportedly looking to unload Sander and profit from its original investment. As Woollard blogs: "<a href="http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/080729-jil-sander-potentially-up-for-sale.aspx">Vogue UK </a>reports that Change Capital Partners is looking for offers off around 200 million euros which is believed to be double what they may have bought the company for. This on a company that, for the year ended January 31, announced profits of 6 million euros on sales of 131 million euros."</p>

<p>The question, of course, is who would buy it? Another private equity group is unlikely--unless they already owned other labels that they could then combine their holdings together and sell the whole thing off at a premium. Permira Advisers, which owns <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=VLTNF">Valentino Fashion Group</a>, comes to mind. But more likely might be one of the big luxury conglomerates, such as Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=lvmh">LVMH</a>) or PPR SA (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=prtp">PRTP</a>), which might see Sander as a good fit to their existing stables. One of the reasons why the Prada relationship fell apart was that Sander disliked the strategy it was taking by developing secondary lines and a bridge collections, two courses she had always opposed. But with Sander gone and the company performing well under the creative direction of Raf Simons, that is no longer a concern to potential acquirers. A third possibility is that Sander herself may step back in, with third-party backing, to retake control of her eponymous brand. </p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/jil_sander_for.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/jil_sander_for.html</guid>
<category>Fashion Business</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 30 Jul 2008 14:06:41 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Coach Cautious About 2009</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Luxury products blog--and guilty pleasure--<a href="http://www.luxist.com/2008/07/29/coach-predicts-tough-times-ahead/">Luxist</a> has a nice post today on Coach (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=coh">COH</a>), which announced just its fourth quarter earnings. Like many other luxury products and services companies, the handbag and accessories maker continues to see strong sales, especially in North America, China and Japan, despite the increasingly sluggish global economy. But looking ahead to the rest of the year they don't like what they see. </p>

<p>The New York City-based company reported that revenue rose 20% to $781.5 million from $652.1 million last year. Excluding the benefit of a weaker dollar, sales rose 16%. Thanks to strong sales and a weaker dollars, profits for the quarter ended June 28 rose to $213.5 million, or 62 cents per share, from $160.6 million, or 42 cents per share last year.</p>

<p>Despite saying that the quarter showed the company's "ability to generate profitable growth in challenging times," <a href="http://www.businessweek.com/ap/financialnews/D927GJPO0.htm">Reuters</a> also reported CEO <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/people/person.asp?personId=550521&symbol=COH">Lew Frankfurt </a>as saying: "'While our new fiscal year has just begun, we believe that the consumer malaise in the U.S. will remain well into calendar 2009, significantly impacting our business.'" He added: "'Accordingly, we will plan cautiously until we see concrete evidence of a change in consumer behavior.'"</p>

<p>That's the good news. The company, which has enjoyed a good run over the past few years, has steadily moved its image increasingly upscale, a move which seems to have benefited their performance as many mid-tier companies struggle. In recent days top-tier luxury companies such as LVMH, Hermes, PPR and Richemont have all announced strong earnings in the last quarter.</p>

<p>But Coach still doesn't quite fit in with these companies and others at the high-end of the luxury scale because the price point on its products tend to trail behind the Fendis, Pradas and Guccis of the world. It's a paradoxical way of thinking, because one would assume that in tough times people would gravitate towards less expensive products that still offered good quality. But so far that doesn't seem to be the case. That's because it's the middle range consumers and below who are being hardest hit. The wealthy, for the time being at least, whether in Moscow, Mumbai or Manhattan, are still buying the brands they always have. And, <a href="http://prod-blogs.businessweek.com/mt/mt.cgi?__mode=view&_type=entry&id=10909&blog_id=37">as I have blogged out before</a>, the high end brands have more cachet than ever now because unlike in the past, only the truly well-off can afford them. </p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/like_many_other_1.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/like_many_other_1.html</guid>
<category>Fashion Business</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2008 12:49:09 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>LVMH Sees Strong Gains Overall But Weakness in Wine &amp; Spirits</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>When the going gets tough, the tough drink cheaper booze. LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=lvmh">LVMH</a>) announced Tuesday that its first-half  profit growth slowed due to weaker demand for premium spirits and wines. Nevertheless, while revenue for that group fell 2% year over year, revenue for its other major operating groups--Fashion & Leather goods, Perfumes & Cosmetics, Watches & Jewelry and Selective Retailing--all reported strong revenue gains. Overall the company beat expectations by reporting a 7% rise in first-half current operating profit that and confirmed its full-year outlook. The Paris-based company, which is the world's largest luxury conglomerate, made a current operating profit of €1.541 billion ($2.42 billion) in the six months to June 30, up from €1.440 billion from the same period last year.</p>

<p>The wine & spirits division includes some of the world's most high-end brands such as Dom Perignon, Moet, Hennessy, Chateau d'Yquem, Krug, Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart, Belvedere and Chopin vodkas, and Glemorangie single malt whisky. LVMH also owns Fendi, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Tag Heuer and Marc Jacobs, among others.</p>

<p>In trading on the Paris bourse, the company's share price fell 0.41% to €68.03.<br />
</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/like_many_other.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/like_many_other.html</guid>
<category>Fashion Business</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2008 11:57:00 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Gucci&apos;s Owner Posts Fashionably Late Sales Increase</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Better late than never, they say. PPR SA (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=prtp">PRTP</a>), the French luxury conglomerate that owns luxury brands such as Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, as well as European book and CD retailer fnac, unexpectantly beat second quarter forecasts by generating revenue of 4.678 billion euros ($7.36 billion) in the three months to June 30 on a sales rise of 4.5%. This comes as particularly good news for company execs and shareholders because in the first-quarter of the year sales growth fell 2.5% from 11% in the fourth quarter of 2007. </p>

<p>But the concern is that Gucci, which accounted for slightly over 6% of sales in Q2 and is PPR's most high-profile luxury brand, is still struggling to re-establish itself as a top tier fashion house. As Sara Gay Forden, author of 2001's <em><a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=vPVsSYbL4CUC">House of Gucci</a></em>(HarperCollins), writes on <a href="http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601093&refer=home&sid=afiMDmyLdduY">Bloomberg</a>: "The return of profit momentum doesn't necessarily mean a revival in the label's cachet." These issues stem from the well-publicized departure of former chief designer Tom Ford and group CEO Domenico de Sole in 2004 over disputes concerning creative control. The team of Ford and de Sole returned Gucci to profitability after years of losses and also made it one of the hottest fashion brands in the world. </p>

<p>In addition to the absence of a dominant designer like Ford--Frida Giannini, who joined Gucci as handbag design director in 2002, is currently creative director--there are two areas of concern: first, is the perception that brand is trying to use its high-end identity to flog more middle-price products. Canvas GG Joy purses and bags, introduced in 2007 and which sell for around $540 or so a pop, have earned the scorn of many in the fashion world who regard them as unworthy of the brand.</p>

<p>Second, is Gucci's small foothold in developing markets such as China and India. While the company has plans to expand in these nations, it is still overly dependent on the U.S. and Europe for the majority of its sales. Chief rivals Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=LVMH.PA">LVMH</a>), Hermes (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=HRMS.PA">HRMS</a>) and Richemont (http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=rifz) have already established solid beach-heads in these booming economies and have seen a commensurate rise in sales. </p>

<p>PPR SA's shares finished the day on the Paris bourse at €66.60, up 5.25% on volume of 1.3 million.</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/guccis_owner_is.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/guccis_owner_is.html</guid>
<category>Fashion Business</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 23 Jul 2008 13:02:41 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Waiting for the Luxury Shoe to Drop?</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>In line with its peers at the upper end of the luxury business, Hermes (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=hrms&submit.x=15&submit.y=9">HRMS</a>)has so far been immune to the global economic downturn. On Tuesday the 171-year-old Parisian company posted a surprise 12.8% increase to 398 million euros, or around $622.4 million, in first-half sales, thanks to strong demand for its silks, handbags and perfumes in Asia (excluding Japan) and North America. Sales were up 13% in Europe, 24% in North America and 22% in the Asia Pacific region. </p>

<p>But like its competition Moet-Hennessy Louis Vuitton (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=lvmh">LVMH</a>) and Richemont, investors don't seem particulary pleased with Hermes' news. Despite strong sales, LVMH's share price is down about 12% from a high in May and Geneva-based Richemont (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=RIFZ.H">RIFZ</a>), owner of Cartier, Montblanc, Alfred Dunhill and other luxury brands, saw a sharp drop in June and July before rebounding slightly. Hermes saw its shares fall back 6.96% today.</p>

<p>One of the reasons for investor concern is that there has been much speculation recently over a possible sale of the company. However, at the annual meeting in June the Hermes family, which controls the majority of the company's voting shares, reiterated that it was not for sale. But the other concern, and this is what it shares with it LVMH and Richemont, is that it is impossible to know how the long good times will last. </p>

<p>To be sure, Hermes has done a terrific job of managing its business and brand but it remains to be seen if they will be able to continue to post such strong growth for the third and fourth quarters--and beyond. It is entirely possible that on the strength of demand from the still-wealthy and developing economies, the second half of 2008 could be as rosy as the first but because the company does not issue forecasts, investors cannot be blamed for striking a cautious tone.<br />
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<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/in_line_with_it.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/in_line_with_it.html</guid>
<category>Fashion Business</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 22 Jul 2008 15:44:29 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>More Wealthy Asians Buying Yachts Locally</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Interesting piece over the weekend in the <a href="http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/07/20/business/yachts.php">IHT</a> about the booming Asian yacht business. It comes as no surprise that wealthy Chinese and Taiwanese are buying megayachts. What does come as a surprise, however, is the fact that they are turning to local yards to build the boats. </p>

<p>One of the primary attractions for these yachts is that because labor is much cheaper than in Europe, which is still the dominant player in the yacht-building business, so are the yachts. Of course, cheap is a relative term: a 12-meter yachts still sells for around $12 million. </p>

<p>But what is most interesting is that many Asian buyers have been extremely brand-conscience, usually preferring to opt to pay more for the status of owning a well-known brand than a less-pricey version. Could it be that as more Asians are becoming wealthier they are trusting their own tastes more and feeling more confident about their luxury purchases? If that is the case, will European and American brands be able to maintain their cachet in Asia, or will Asians begin to prefer buying locally and spending less? If that's the case, it could be worrying for Western luxury companies that have expanded so rapidly in Asia and which recently have grown more dependent on Asian consumers to drive their bottom lines? </p>

<p>On the other hand, as the IHT points out, with lower prices comes lower quality. And that is something that demanding customers, wherever they live, won't tolerate.</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/more_wealthy_as.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/more_wealthy_as.html</guid>
<category>Global Wealth</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 21 Jul 2008 18:42:48 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>Burberry&apos;s Stellar 2008</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p><img alt="BRBY.png" src="/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/BRBY.png" width="228" height="225" /></p>

<p><em>Burberry's stock price is unfashionably up.</em></p>

<p>British fashion-house Burberry Group PLC (<a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=BRBY.L">BRBY</a>) continues its stellar 2008. Back in May it announced that it had posted a 15% gain in second-half profit, and now for its third quarter it has reported that revenues were up 14% and that retail sales had increased 4.5%. That's great news but what makes it truly remarkable is that its success is derived primarily from increased sales in the U.S. at a time when many other luxury brands are struggling in the States. Kudos to CEO <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/people/person.asp?personId=2015350&symbol=BRBY.L">Angela Ahrendts</a>. Her strategy to expand in the U.S. is clearly paying off. </p>

<p>I was <a href="http://www.businessweek.com/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/05/burberrys_bette.html">skeptical</a> about both the brand and the strategy when I blogged about it in May. But clearly many well-heeled fashion fans dig what the company is doing. Shareholders are digging it too. The company closed up 4.63% to 440.75 p on the London Stock Exchange.</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/burberrys_stell.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/burberrys_stell.html</guid>
<category>Fashion Business</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jul 2008 16:06:22 -0500</pubDate>
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<title>How Will Luxury Companies Fare in the Third Quarter?</title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Swiss luxury goods giant <a href="http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/snapshot/snapshot.asp?symbol=RIFZ.BE">Richemont</a> announced a 13% increase in first quarter sales, largely on the strength of its jewelry brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier. And, like nearly every company in the luxury space, much of that increase was derived from strong growth in Asia, specifically in China. But one can't help but wonder whether these companies can continue this performance in the next quarter.</p>

<p>The problem is that the Dow sank below 11,000 for the first time in two years this week. While it climbed back above that mark today it still means that billions of dollars in wealth has been wiped out around the world since its high of 14,164 on Oct. 9, 2007. That means that even the wealthy are more likely to feel the economic pinch that had previously been felt primarily by those hurt by the real estate slump and the ensuing credit crunch. </p>

<p>The presumption when the economy first began to tumble was that at the very top life would continue much as before, with the uber-wealthy still shopping at Cartier, buying Ferraris, summering in the Hamptons and traveling first-class. These people, the reasoning went, would be unaffected because they were already so rich. </p>

<p>But now many of them are a lot less rich than they had been before. Sure, for those lucky enough to be worth a billion or more that will probably remain true (although some of them may be a little more quiet about it). But for others, especially retirees who believed their nest eggs were large enough to ride out the biggest storm, that may no longer be the case. </p>

<p>And while the Richemonts of the world can still actively develop new markets in rapidly growing states like China, Russia, India, Dubai and others, the loss of revenue from "mature" markets like the U.S. and the EU will cause them real pain. After all, nearly every luxury brand in the world counts the U.S. as its No. 1 market. If sales here slip meaningfully, they won't be offset anytime soon by their newer markets. (And a weak dollar doesn't help either.) To be sure, these areas will continue to grow--and it's a good bet the U.S. will come back--but it's likely that before then there will be some shakeout in the luxury industry. Some brands will survive, some won't, and still others will be acquired for cheap. What will be interesting to see is whether the luxury sector's newest clients could one day become its newest owners.</p>

<p>If anyone has any hunches about which ones will make it and which ones will fall, please leave a comment below.</p>]]></description>
<link>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/swiss_luxury_go.html</link>
<guid>/lifestyle/business_luxury/archives/2008/07/swiss_luxury_go.html</guid>
<category>Global Wealth</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 16 Jul 2008 16:05:03 -0500</pubDate>
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