09/16/96 THE 'SARATOGA OF THE SOUTH'

THE 'SARATOGA OF THE SOUTH'

During the Roaring Twenties, the mist-filled mountains surrounding Asheville, N.C., became such a popular retreat for New York high society that the region picked up the nickname ``Saratoga of the South.'' Small wonder. With its mild climate, warm Southern hospitality, and spectacular views of the adjoining Great Smoky and Blue Ridge Mountains, Asheville has proved a potent attraction for Presidents, Vanderbilts, and the F. Scott Fitzgeralds.
There's no better season to discover Asheville than fall, when the hills are ablaze in color. The peak weeks for leaf-peeping vary according to elevation. At the highest altitudes, the most spectacular display may occur in early October. At lower points such as Hickory Nut Gorge, only 2,000 feet above sea level, colors are likely to peak a few weeks later. The best vantage points for viewing the fall foliage lie along the Blue Ridge Parkway, which originates just outside Asheville.
For the perfect side trip, take the parkway about a half-hour to Mt. Mitchell, which at 6,684 feet is the highest point east of the Mississippi River. As you wind your way up the last mile from the parkway to the top, you can reach out and feel the frosty condensation from the clouds. (Regrettably, the view from the summit reveals the sad effects of acid rain, which is causing the defoliation of many grand pine trees.) Another 45 minutes' drive eastward brings you to some of the mountains' most inspirational views--at the Linn Cove Viaduct, an engineering marvel whose completion in 1987 marked the final link in the construction of a parkway begun 60 years earlier, and at Grandfather Mountain, which features a mile-high swinging bridge.
By this time, you'll want to abandon your car and experience Asheville's beauty at first hand. The region is full of tour guides and rental agencies that can equip you for canoeing, mountain biking, or even a hot-air balloon ride. There are also quite a few golf courses, some quite challenging because of dramatic swings in elevation that make judging distances difficult. Linville Golf Course may rank second only to the Homestead in Hot Springs, Va., as the best mountain course in the Eastern U.S. Others worth exploring: Mt. Mitchell Golf Club, Maggie Valley Resort Golf Club, and the Etowah Valley Country Club.
For all the natural splendor surrounding Asheville, some of the biggest attractions are man-made, including the Biltmore estate, a lavish 255-room French chateau that still stands as the largest private house in the country--and it is open to public tours. The Biltmore's original owner, George Washington Vanderbilt, can also claim credit, at least indirectly, for much of the accomplished turn-of-the-century architecture downtown, because many of the hundreds of European artisans and craftsmen imported to work on the Biltmore stayed on in the region afterwards. Just outside the business district stands the modest childhood home of novelist Thomas Wolfe, the sprawling Dixieland boardinghouse that played a central role in his 1929 classic, Look Homeward, Angel.
Be forewarned, however, that during peak seasons, Asheville can be short on first-class accommodations and low airfares. The dominant carrier at Asheville's airport is USAir, which charges anywhere from $198 to $1,200 for a New York-to-Asheville round-trip. Locals often use Midway Airlines, which serves nearby Greenville, S.C., and make the hour's drive to Asheville by car.
GRACIOUS. One of Asheville's premier resorts is the grand 510-room Grove Park Inn (800 438-5800), which has played host to eight Presidents. In addition, F. Scott Fitzgerald stayed there while Zelda was recuperating at a local sanitarium. If you prefer more intimate accommodations, try the Richmond Hill Inn (704 252-7313), a restored Victorian residence with gracious service, or the Old Reynolds Mansion (704 254-0496), an 1850 antebellum house on the National Register. Asheville Accommodations (800 770-9055) and Four Star Accommodations of Asheville (800 816-8449) can put you in touch with the area's many bed-and-breakfasts. So close your eyes and prepare to step back in time.
EDITED BY AMY DUNKIN By Dean Foust