A Superlative New Generation In Provence
By Robert Parker Domaine Pierre Usseglio, a 53-acre estate in Provence's Ch?teauneuf du Pape appellation, always made good wine. But when Pierre's sons, Thierry and Jean-Pierre, took over the winemaking at the domaine in the mid-1990s, the quality rose to world-class. Besides their classic Ch?teauneuf du Pape cuv?es, the brothers produce a gorgeous C?tes du Rh?ne and a very good, inexpensive table wine.Non-vintage Panorama Vin de Table86 points. Mainly merlot, the wine has notes of spice, earth, black fruits, and some dusty tannins. It has a lean and sinewy finish. $122005 C?tes du Rh?ne88 points. Made with 90% grenache and 10% mourv?dre, the wine reveals nice berry fruit with some spice, pepper, and dusty, loamy notes. It is dark ruby, medium-bodied, and fleshy, but with good acidity and light tannin. Drink it over the next four to five years. $162005 Ch?teauneuf du Pape Tradition92-94 points. Dense purple in color, this wine displays notes of raspberry, black cherry, and even some black currant and licorice. Medium- to full-bodied, with good acidity, moderate tannin, and outstanding ripeness and length, it will be at its best in two to three years and drink well for 12 to 15. $25-$352003 Ch?teauneuf du Pape Tradition92 points. The 2003 Tradition is a full-bodied peppery wine that, having notes of lavender, herbs, and sweet black cherries and raspberries, oozes with the essence of Provence. Some licorice, saddle leather, and salty sea breeze notes also make it into the character of this concentrated wine, which is silky enough to drink now or cellar for 10 to 12 years. $30-$402004 Ch?teauneuf du Pape Cuv?e de Mon A?eul94 points. This 100% grenache cuv?e exhibits a deep ruby purple color and a wonderful sweet nose of black cherry, raspberry, licorice, spice box, and roasted herbs. With full body and decent acidity, this wine should drink beautifully for 12 to 15 or more years. $75-$1002003 Ch?teauneuf du Pape Cuv?e de Mon A?eul97 points. One of the vintage's most profound wines, this Cuv?e de Mon A?eul has a dense purple color as well as a glorious nose of blackberries, licorice, smoke, and some hints of roasted meats and dried herbs. Amazingly opulent with extraordinary purity, it leaves a huge tactile impression on the palate without being heavy. Anticipated maturity: now to 2020+. $95-$1212003 Ch?teauneuf du Pape R?serve des Deux Fr?res98 points. This wine has a high, 16.5% alcohol content, but you would never know that from tasting it. Dense purple to the rim, with a huge nose of scorched earth, blackberry and blueberry liqueur, cr?me de cassis, and roasted meat juices, it also has a hint of Proven?al herbs interwoven with licorice and a touch of balsamic. The wine is voluptuously textured, with striking body, low acidity, and amazing concentration. This fabulous bottle should drink well for 20+ years. $170-$202Wines rated from 96-100 are extraordinary; 90-95, excellent; 80-89, above average to very good. For more Parker picks, go to businessweek.com/extras. Robert Parker is the world's most influential wine critic. Visit www.eRobertParker.com to see tens of thousands of tasting notes, buy his books, or subscribe to his newsletter, The Wine Advocate.