Bloomberg News

Top 10 Toasts Rothschild Fizz, $3,500 Port, Boxed Chardonnay

December 20, 2011

Dec. 12 (Bloomberg) -- In 2011, I traveled to wineries on four continents and sampled more than 5,000 wines, from old classics to promising new cuvees, in search of the recommendable. As usual, I encountered plenty of overpriced plonk as well as the stunning and memorable.

My top 10 this year are an eclectic mix, from an esoteric natural wine to a super-scarce cult bottling to a white from a country not renowned for its wine. All reflect where the wine world is today -- and point to where it’s going next.

NV Barons de Rothschild Blanc de Blancs Champagne ($125)

My current bling wine is this hyper-elegant fizz, the best of a trio of champagnes in the first joint wine venture of the Rothschild clan. The three branches of the famous banking and wine-growing families separately own Bordeaux chateaux Lafite, Mouton and Clarke, so for wineloving show-offs, the pedigree can’t be beat. Yes, it’s too expensive, but its subtle complexity and creamy texture backed up its label power in a New York launch tasting with project chairman Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, whose mother owns Mouton.

1998 Giuseppe Quintarelli Alzero Cabernet ($325)

I’d never tried this rare, mostly cabernet franc blend, made Amarone-style from dried grapes by Italian maestro Giuseppe Quintarelli. So when a generous host pulled out the 1998, I happily reveled in its cedar and truffle aromas and savored its deep velvety texture. One of Italy’s most compelling wines, it rivals Bordeaux’s far pricier Cheval Blanc.

2003 Gravner Ribolla Gialla Anfora ($115)

“Orange” wines are the latest buzzworthy natural trend. They’re whites made the way reds are, by letting juice macerate with the skins to pick up color and tannin. My favorite of those I’ve tasted this year is this fascinating, powerful, honey-and- heather wine from Italy’s Friuli region. Esoteric winemaking adds to the allure. Inventive vintner Josko Gravner ages it in buried terracotta amphoras.

2011 Cultivate Wonderlust Chardonnay ($35, 3 liter box)

Clinton Global Initiative attendees inhaled glasses of this superior box wine at a September VIP reception for the former President. The bright, fresh, spearminty chardonnay from Chilean grapes is my bargain pick, and not just because of its quality to price ratio. Ten percent of the price goes to good causes, which you can vote for on the website. (Masterminds behind it are ex-Screaming Eagle owner Charles Banks and wife Ali.)

2009 Magrez-Aruga Koshu ($35)

Surprise of the year. This fresh, delicate white is made from Japanese grape variety koshu in Yamanashi prefecture. It’s an east-west project of Bordeaux chateau owner Bernard Magrez and Katsunuma winery owner Yuuji Aruga. The wine’s lightly floral aromas and subtle citrus-and-chalk flavors convinced me Japan has a wine country future.

2001 Grant Burge The Holy Trinity ($35)

I had low expectations for this 10-year-old Australian Barossa Valley red when I found a forgotten bottle of it in my cellar. Like many wine lovers, I’ve trashed the region’s reds as expensive over-the-top fruit bombs. Clearly we shouldn’t write off all of them: 10 years of aging turned this balanced grenache-shiraz-mourvedre blend into a scented, wonderfully plummy wine with silky tannins.

2005 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance ($50, 500ml)

South Africa’s sweet Constantia wines, coveted by 19th century royals, also consoled Napoleon in exile on Saint Helena. Forgotten after phylloxera devastated the Cape’s vineyards, the legendary late-harvest muscat was revived in the 1980s. On a South African wine tour I tasted several vintages and was wowed by the 2005’s heady, honeysuckle aromas and taste of sweet apricots and candied orange peels. When are wine lovers going to wake up and embrace sweet wines?

2006 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne ($110)

This year, I’ve had my fair share of rare stellar Burgundies that cost hundreds to thousands of dollars a bottle. But this deep, rich, luscious and perfectly balanced white, savored in Hong Kong before a record-breaking auction, reminded me that it’s still possible to find stunning Burgundies from grand cru vineyards for just over $100. Jadot’s ageworthy bottling, from the domaine’s prime 4.9-acre (2 hectare) parcel, is what the greatness of chardonnay is all about.

Taylor Fladgate Scion Port ($3,500)

Who wouldn’t love this story? An elderly woman in Portugal’s remote Douro region dies, leaving two heirloom casks of port that have been aging quietly for 150 years. Famous port house buys same and releases 1,400 bottles of this 1855 pre- phylloxera tawny in fancy boxes. This incredibly complex spice and toffee wine is up to the tale. A high price? Well, it’s only $23 per year of aging.

1983 Chateau Musar Red ($370-$440)

I’d never miss a tasting of old vintages from Lebanon’s Chateau Musar with owner Serge Hochar, one of the world’s wine heroes. During decades of conflict, with bombs exploding, he still managed to harvest grapes and make his thought-provoking wines. At New York’s Hearth restaurant he poured six reds, his grand vin cabernet and Rhone-grapes blend. My pick was the great spice-and-rose-petal-scented 1983. As battles raged, Hochar had to be smuggled into the winery to make it.

(Elin McCoy writes on wine and spirits for Muse, the arts and leisure section of Bloomberg News. The opinions expressed are her own.)

--Editors: Adam Majendie, Daniel Billy.

To contact the writer of the story: Elin McCoy at elinmccoy@gmail.com.

To contact the editor responsible for this story: Manuela Hoelterhoff in New York at mhoelterhoff@bloomberg.net.


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