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text size: T T Features July 07, 2011, 5:15 PM EDT

Geoducks: Puget Sound Gold

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Geoduck stats Gregg Segal

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Average price of geoduck per pound Data: Washington Fish and Wildlife Dept.

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How to clean a geoduck Illustration by Kelsey Dake

This Issue

In all, the Ichiban’s Captain Parker has a 20-person crew. He says some are stronger divers than others, but he’s lucky because there’s not a dud in the bunch. He’s got a reliable No. 2 in Dave Whitener, Connie’s brother. The others rotate in on a schedule. “That’s unless there’s a special situation,” says Connie. “My sister got real sick and needed an X-ray, so Craig gave me a bunch of shifts to pay for it.”

“And Dave’s getting married in a few months,” laughs Parker. “So he gets as many shifts as he can handle.”

If the 15 tribes have plans to expand beyond their own operations and organize to control the price of geoduck, nobody is saying a word. If they ever do, they’d do well to consider developing their domestic market.

“Geoduck is very hard to get in America,” says Marco Moreira, the executive chef of New York’s 15 East and Tocqueville restaurants. “When we order from purveyors we order four, knowing we’ll only get two if we’re lucky.” Moreira says he frequently pays $30 to $40 per pound for the bivalves in New York—Shenzhen prices. He swears the clam is worth it. “It does not smell the least bit fishy, it’s rather bright, briny—a clean ocean smell,” Moreira says. “It is too delicate even for citrus, so I don’t ceviche it. I serve it raw with a touch of soy, olive oil, maybe a little wasabi. I love it for its crunchy texture as much as its flavor. Geoduck is my favorite thing.”

Manny Howard is the author of My Empire of Dirt: How One Man Turned His Big-City Backyard into a Farm and founder of stuntfoodways.com.

Howard is a Bloomberg Businessweek contributor.

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