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JUNE 26, 2006
By Robert Parker Those Lazy, Hazy Days Of Rosé There's nothing better on a sultry day than a wonderful bottle of dry rosé. The wine's blush comes from limiting the contact the juice of red grapes has with skin. So just in time for summer, here are some of my favorites, which include value-priced choices as well as a splurge. Dominio de Eguren 2005 Protocolo Rosada (Castilla, Spain) 89 points. A dry, zesty rosé with surprising body, a fragrant personality (strawberries and cherries), and a crisp, zingy finish. It is a blend of 50% bobal and 50% tempranillo. $6 Château Guiot 2005 Rosé Costières de Nîmes (Languedoc, France) 87 points. A blend of 55% syrah, 40% grenache, and 5% mourvèdre, it displays a nose of spicy raspberries and pepper. Light to medium-bodied and satin-textured, it offers a flavor profile of red fruits with a note of peach that makes an appearance in the finish. Drink it over the next six to nine months. $10 Falesco 2005 Vitiano Rosé (Umbria, Italy) 87 points. It's a blend of merlot, sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, and a touch of aleatico. The dramatic ruby color is followed by a floral, kirsch-liqueur-like nose, fresh, lively strawberry and cherry flavors, and a zesty finish. Consume it before the end of 2006. $10 Turkey Flat Vineyards 2006 Rosé (Barossa, Australia) 90 points. A dramatic neon pink color (will it glow in the dark?) is followed by a full-bodied, dry, fresh, flamboyant rosé made from a combination of grenache, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, and dolcetto. It boasts a knockout bouquet of strawberries and cherries, terrific fruit, and plenty of body as well as flavor volume. Enjoy it over the next 12 months. $16 Torbreck 2005 Saignée (Barossa, Australia) 92 points. One of the finest rosés in the marketplace, this 100% mourvèdre is fashioned by one of Australia's most brilliant winemakers, David Powell. Barrel-fermented in neutral wood, it reveals a light salmon color along with a blockbuster nose of plums, anise, pepper, and sweet cherries as well as currants. Dry, but full-bodied with amazing length, it is a serious rosé for true connoisseurs. Drink it over the next year. $20 Tablas Creek 2005 Rosé (Paso Robles, Calif.) 90 points. It's a full-throttle, big, exuberant, dry example bursting with character. Made from mourvèdre, grenache, and counoise, its deep pink color is followed by a stunning nose of plums, raspberries, and figs. Full-bodied, with superb fruit and tremendous crispness and authority, it is amazing stuff. Drink it in the first year to take advantage of its fresh flavors. $27 Billecart-Salmon 1996 Cuvée Elizabeth Salmon Rosé (Champagne, France) 95 points. Vivid strawberry, raspberry, and berry fruit with hints of smoke, crushed rocks, and a touch of rhubarb. Light pink in hue, this sparkling wine is boldly flavored, with crisp acidity. Most of its character is at the back of the mouth. It's a brilliant, medium- to full-bodied vintage rosé to drink over the next 10-plus years. $150 Wines rated from 96-100 are extraordinary; 90-95, excellent; 80-89, above average to very good. For more Parker picks, go to businessweek.com/extras Visit www.eRobertParker.com for the Internet's most active wine bulletin board, tens of thousands of tasting notes or to order his most recent book, The World's Greatest Wine Estates, A Modern Perspective. You can also subscribe to Parker's newsletter, The Wine Advocate. Request a sample copy at The Wine Advocate, P.O. Box 311, Monkton, MD 21111.
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