Argentina's Greatest Wines

Only a decade ago this country's wines were virtually unknown. Today its malbecs compete with the world's finest wines in both taste and price

by Robert Parker

If you have not yet caught on, the malbec grape is king in Argentina, and while many fabulous bargains exist, there are also some outrageously expensive malbecs that are truly world-class, competing with the finest wines made in Bordeaux and the Napa Valley. Here is a selection of the finest Argentinean malbecs in the marketplace from my colleague Jay Miller.

92 points
Val de Flores 2004 Malbec (Mendoza)

The 2004 Val de Flores Malbec was made in consultation with Michel Rolland. The grapes came from a vineyard that is more than 50 years old in the Vista Flores region of Mendoza. The wine was aged for 14 months in new French oak and bottled unfiltered. Opaque and purple, it offers an alluring perfume of pain grillé, pencil lead, blueberry, and black-cherry jam. This leads to a full-bodied, smoothly textured, elegant malbec with gobs of flavor, silky tannins concealed under a blanket of sweet fruit, and a long, pure finish. Built to last, it will unfurl over the next six to eight years and drink well through 2030. $50

93 points
Mendel 2005 Malbec (Mendoza)

This wine was sourced from a 77-year-old ungrafted vineyard, and aged for 12 months in 40% new French oak. It is opaque and purple, with aromas of smoke, toast, violets, and black raspberry. Supple, ripe, and layered, it is firmly structured with well-concealed tannins. It will evolve for three to five years and drink well through 2025. $47

94 points
Bodega Monteviejo 2005 Lindaflor Malbec (Mendoza)

Monteviejo's flagship is the Lindaflor Malbec. The 2005 was aged for 18 months in 100% new French oak. It offers up an ethereal perfume of pain grillé, vanilla, pencil lead, espresso, blueberry, black cherry, and a hint of dark chocolate. Quite massive on the palate yet light on its feet, the wine exhibits thick, intense flavors, gobs of sweet fruit, concealed tannin, and a very long finish. It should easily age for a decade and drink well through 2030. $65

94 points
Yacouchuya 2003 Cafayete (Argentina)

The personal project of the renowned Bordeaux oenologist Michel Rolland, Yacouchuya is made from high-elevation, old-vine malbec. The 2003 is a full-bodied, intensely concentrated effort exhibiting stunning aromas of blackberries, blueberries, licorice, charcoal, and spice. Unctuously textured, with decent underlying acidity, this beautiful malbec was fashioned from a 65-year-old vineyard planted at 2,470 meters! $65

95 points
Bodegas Achaval-Ferrer 2005 Malbec Finca Altamira (Mendoza)

The 2005 Finca Altamira is more primordial and backward than the 2004. Very primary at the moment, with another decade in the bottle it will surely blossom and reveal far more complexity. At that time, my present score will look conservative. Although Achaval-Ferrer's wines have virtually no track record, I am confident they will evolve in the manner of a First Growth Bordeaux. $112

94 points
Bodegas Achaval-Ferrer 2005 Malbec Finca Mirador (Mendoza)

The 2005 Finca Mirador Malbec is more dense and austere. It is likely to have a longer drinking window and it will be a pleasant task to compare the two vintages in another decade. $112

95 points
Luca 2004 Nico by Luca Malbec (Altos de Mendoza)

The 2004 Nico by Luca Malbec (100% malbec) raises the bar. It offers a heady perfume of pain grillé, scorched earth, mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry preserve. Loaded on the palate, the wine has great depth and incipient complexity. This superb malbec will evolve for 8-10 years and drink well through 2035 in the manner of a top-classified growth Bordeaux. $125