Wines to Make You Forget Burgundy

A selection of 15 of California's finest pinot noirs that, while expensive, are as good or better than most red Burgundies

by Robert Parker

Red Burgundy is the ultimate minefield of the wine world—notoriously unreliable, often disappointing, and rarely living up to its illustrious reputation. No region in the world has made greater progress with the fickle pinot noir grape than California, and here are some of the best pinot noirs money can buy from that state. None of them is inexpensive, but most of them will eclipse almost any red Burgundy made today.

89-91 points
J. Rochioli Vineyard 2006 Pinot Noir Estate (Russian River)

The medium ruby-hued 2006 Pinot Noir Estate possesses soft, strawberry and kirsch-like aromas, abundant sweet berry fruit on the palate, good acidity, and a soft, round style meant to be consumed over the next several years. $45

91 points
Kalin Cellars 1997 Pinot Noir Cuvée DD (Sonoma)

The Burgundy-styled 1997 Pinot Noir Cuvée DD exhibits smoky, gamey, forest floor, herb, fresh mushroom, meat, plum, fig, and cherry characteristics. Made in a northern Côte de Nuits style with zesty acidity, ripe tannin, and a dark plum/garnet color, this beautiful wine should last for another decade. Terry Leighton must be the most singular and distinctive wine producer in California, and we're all better off for it. $42

91 points
Peter Michael Winery 2005 Pinot Noir Le Moulin Rouge (Santa Lucia Highlands)

The 2005 Pinot Noir Le Moulin Rouge has a dark ruby/purple color, with tart acidity holding back the wine's forceful black cherry and raspberry notes intermixed with licorice, spring flowers, and forest floor. The wine is tightly knit and will benefit from several years of bottle age; it will last at least a decade or more. $85

93 points
Ambullneo Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros (Santa Maria)

The single vineyard 2005 Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros exhibits attractive sweet black cherry, currant, licorice, incense, forest floor, and roasted herb notes, fabulous fruit, a fleshy, savory, full-bodied mouth-feel, a sense of elegance, sweet tannin, and a long finish. This lovely wine can be enjoyed now and over the next decade. $95

93 points
Martinelli 2006 Pinot Noir Three Sisters Vineyard Sea Ridge Meadow (Sonoma Coast)

Resembling a premier cru from the Côte de Beaune, the 2006 Pinot Noir Three Sisters Vineyard Sea Ridge Meadow offers up scents of pomegranate, kirsch, licorice, roasted herbs, and underbrush. It is a full-bodied, silky-textured, sexy, opulent effort to enjoy over the next 3-5 years. $50-$60

93 points
Williams-Selyem 2005 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard (Sonoma Coast)

I loved the 2005 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard for its sweet red apple skin, pomegranate, cherry, raspberry, earthy, forest floor, and juicy meat-like perfume. This full-bodied, tannic pinot requires additional bottle age, but it should prove to be uncommonly long-lived, easily lasting 12-15 years. $69

94 points
Brewer-Clifton 2005 Pinot Noir Mount Carmel (Santa Rita Hills)

A dead ringer for a DRC Echézeaux, the 2005 Pinot Noir Mount Carmel exhibits a medium ruby hue as well as a big, expansive aromatic display of forest floor, sweet cherries, pomegranate, fresh mushrooms, and spring flowers. Fabulous fruit, a silky mouth-feel, a long, heady richness, full body, and moderate tannin suggest this Burgundian-styled California beauty should drink well for 12-15+ years. $75