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Get Four
|  | NOVEMBER 30, 2004
By Amy Tsao Despite the Hype, No Elixirs of Youth Lots of products promise to reverse the signs of aging, while providing little or no proof that they work. Here's what you need to know The ugly truth is that most of the age-fighting products available for retail sale lack scientific data to support their claims. While manufacturers promise dramatic improvements, especially on wrinkles, relatively few products have been studied scientifically. That's because the active ingredients in many popular cosmeceuticals are vitamins and plant extracts, which aren't subject to the rigors of the Food & Drug Administration's drug-approval process, consisting of controlled safety and effectiveness trials in human subjects. Indeed, most manufacturers are content to be in this blurry cosmeceutical zone, with little need –- or incentive -- to conduct expensive studies. FEEL-GOOD PRODUCTS? "With a few exceptions, there's precious little good data that any of the anti-aging products sold over-the-counter are effective," says Eileen Ringel, a dermatologist based in Waterville, Me. Ringel, who's also a consultant to the FDA's dermatology board, says the only data often available are "testimonials" by users who claim they've seen or felt a change in their appearance. When studies have been done, they often lack "oversight and are poorly designed," she says. "A lot of skin-care products have rudimentary data to show that they're effective on some level," says Richard Glogau, clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco. "Most are just very fancy overpriced moisturizers that make the skin feel good." (Glogau consults with several cosmeceutical makers.) Take Avon's (AVP ) latest foray into the battle against aging. In October, it launched a new product in its popular Anew line, Anew Deep Crease, which it bills as an alternative to Botox injections. The marketing pitch: "Look stunning, not stunned." UNDISCLOSED DETAILS. Avon says the gel contains hyaluronic acid (the main component of synthetic collagens) for a filling effect and a "custom" extract of a plant called portulaca for a relaxing effect. "We uncovered it on our own," says Glen Anderson, senior manager in skin-care product development, of portulaca, which Avon imports from Asia. Avon claims that the product showed strong results. After eight weeks of use, 71% of patients tested saw improvement in their lines. That sounds impressive, but the company declines to disclose the total number of patients tested or any other study details. Anderson says Avon's legal department has the detailed results ready should the Federal Trade Commission, which monitors advertising for unfair or deceptive claims, ever ask for it. Indeed, the products that are best supported by published, scientific data are prescription drugs like vitamin-A derivatives (Renova, Retin-A, Differin, and Avage) and FDA-approved injectable treatments, such as Botox, Hylaform, and Restylane. In the nonprescription arena, some researchers point to data suggesting that some forms of topical vitamin C may protect the skin from sun damage. AGGRESSIVE MARKETING. Those, of course, are the minority. A whole universe of cosmeceutical products exist that contain a variety of plants, herbs, vitamins, and antioxidants. Alpha hydroxy acids are also popular. Others use relatively new active ingredients, like palmitoyl-pentapeptide, the basis of StriVectin-SD -- a cream that with aggressive marketing as a youth-restoring alternative to Botox -– has become a big seller in the past year. Creams containing growth factors, which are traditionally used to treat wounds and burns, are also showing up in the marketplace as youth-restoring treatments. Consumers also may not realize that the products dermatologists hawk aren't likely to be any better than items sold on pharmacy shelves or in department stores, says Ringel. "I don't understand why dermatologists would recommend these products to patients without being able to examine a well-designed, peer-reviewed study," she says. "They might as well base their recommendations on what they heard last week on Oprah." One silver lining in cosmeceuticals' runaway growth is that for the most part, the giant beauty-products makers won't risk the type of lawsuits that would result from products that might be proved harmful. Avon's Anderson says the company runs "a significant amount of safety testing" for toxicity and allergies. Often Avon will do "exaggerated use" tests in which the ingredient is set on a patch and driven into the skin to see if it causes adverse reactions. "These companies aren't willing to take risks on stuff that's flimsy," says Glogau.
BW MALL
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