Students Market Clothing with Conscience

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Edun chief executive Christian Kemp-Griffin says the company had already been looking for a way to penetrate the college market when he got an e-mail in the middle of last year from Smith, who is now the project's faculty adviser. For Edun, Kemp-Griffin says the partnership is an ideal exercise in brand-, consumer-, and volume-building. "It's getting people involved in the issues by being a part of a business, and I think that's a really motivating way for people to do it—it's not hearsay, it's not marketing push, it's actually happening."

Not Where But How

Of course, using students to spread awareness of social justice issues is not without precedent. The antisweatshop movement that began in the late 1990s was fueled largely by activists on college campuses. Since then, companies like T-shirt maker American Apparel have taken the idea of conscious consumption (or "ethical fashion") decidedly more mainstream (see BusinessWeek.com, 9/27/06, "Green Threads for the Eco Chic").

In fact, Kemp-Griffin admits that in terms of their approach, Edun Live and American Apparel—which makes its own clothing in Los Angeles—aren't that different. He says both are selling a philosophy, "trade in Africa" or "sweatshop-free, made-in the USA," as much as a T-shirt. "It's just that the reason to buy is different," he says.

And is that enough to keep college kids interested? For Edun's part, Kemp-Griffin says that while he hasn't seen the details of the Miami group's business plan yet, the company is committed to taking an active in role in helping them succeed," so it isn't just, 'okay, my fraternity bought a T-shirt, we've done our bit.'" He says it'll be up to both parties to figure out new ways to promote the business and attract and retain customers, "…anything that a normal business would need to do to stay alive and grow and prosper."

Filling a Need

Smith, for one, is optimistic, citing preliminary market research conducted by his students that 92% of Miami undergrads buy at least four screen-printed T-shirts per year, and 72% of them said they would pay more for a T-shirt that supports a cause. "As long as college students need T-shirts, we will continue to have a sustainable business," Smith says.

And in the short-term, he adds, the project has already done a lot to build awareness at the university. "Everyone stereotypes Miami students as living in a bubble and not caring, and I think we've proven that stereotype wrong," says senior Andy Mitchelides, president of Edun Live on Campus. "I think we've given hope to people that you can make a difference, even if it's on a small scale."

Click here for a slide show of fashion brands that are marketing themselves as "socially conscious."

Miller is a reporter with BusinessWeek.com in New York.