09/16/96 GINGERBREAD ALONG THE JERSEY SHORE

GINGERBREAD ALONG THE JERSEY SHORE

To the country or to the shore? The great thing about Cape May, N.J., is that you get both: a charming country town within earshot of the pounding surf. Located at the southernmost tip of New Jersey, it's no more than a three-hour drive for weekenders living between New York City and the nation's capital.
Cape May calls itself America's oldest seaside resort. Vacationers started summering there in the early 1800s, and it has remained a popular vacation spot ever since. Much of what still stands hails from the Victorian era. Dozens of splendid inns, hotels, and private homes have been lavishly and lovingly restored, complete with historically correct paint hues that highlight the elaborate gingerbread ornamentation on the wood-frame buildings. Most lie in the town's central historic district, which is included on the National Register of Historic Places.
HEARTY BREAKFASTS. The best way to experience the Victoriana of Cape May is to stay in one of the 50 bed-and-breakfasts, most of which complement the 19th century architecture with period furnishings and appointments. Over the years, my wife and I have stayed in three B&Bs--the Queen Victoria, Leith Hall, and Columns by the Sea--and have enjoyed them all. Like most B&Bs, these inns offer ample (and, alas, cholesterol-laden) breakfasts and chatty innkeepers who talk about the genealogy of their inns and the myriad trials of do-it-yourself historic restorations.
In the fall, B&B weekend rates run from $75 to $150 per night, depending on the size and location of the room and the quality of the furnishings and decor. For availability, call the Chamber of Commerce of Greater Cape May (609 884-5508) or Historic Accommodations of Cape May (609 884-0080), a confederation of B&B owners.
For first-time visitors, a walking tour is a must. The tours, run by the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts (MAC), a local cultural organization, will help you distinguish the round-turret Queen Anne homes from the arched-window Gothic Revival structures and the mansard-roofed Second Empire buildings. The walking tour costs $5 and lasts about 90 minutes. If you want to see more, MAC offers a $12 self-guided interiors tour of five inns followed by afternoon tea at a historic hotel. Innkeepers are on hand to answer questions about their buildings. For tour information, call MAC at 800 275-4278.
In the fall, Cape May becomes one of the best birding sites in the nation. Birders gather at observation platforms at Cape May Point to see hawks, eagles, and herons, but sightings of the flocks are easy just about anywhere on the Cape. The Birding Festival, Nov. 1-3, coincides with the peak migration period. Last year, it was estimated that half a million robins flew over on one day. Call the Cape May Bird Observatory (609 884-2736) or the birding hotline (609 884-2626).
Picturesque streets, light traffic, and pancake-flat terrain make the Cape a great place for cycling. Start at the corner of Beach Drive and Jackson Street on the Atlantic Ocean, ride through town on Jackson, and make a left on West Perry. Follow this road west as it becomes Sunset Boulevard and dead-ends at Sunset Beach on Delaware Bay. Truth be told, the trip is only about three miles, but it lets you brag to friends that you rode clear across New Jersey from east to west.
On your way back to Cape May, turn right onto Lighthouse Avenue, the entrance to Cape May Point--the real geographical tip of the state. Ride through the village to the 1859 lighthouse, which has been restored and converted into a maritime museum. With the $3.50 admission, you can work up an appetite for the evening meal, if bicycling didn't quite do the trick, by climbing the 199-step spiral staircase.
SEARED SHRIMP. At dinner time, forget predictable shore fare such as boiled lobster and fried clams. The Cape's best restaurants offer innovative ``new American'' cuisine such as seared shrimp with grilled jicama slaw and Southwestern-seasoned couscous at Waters Edge. Most B&Bs keep a basket of menus in their parlors, and the innkeepers can help, too. You may want to pick up a bottle of wine on your way to dinner; many of the local restaurants do not have liquor licenses.
Nightlife in Cape May revolves around dinner and a walk along the beach. However, if you happen to be in the mood for faster action, the casinos and Las Vegas-style shows of Atlantic City are just an hour's drive north.
EDITED BY AMY DUNKIN By Jeffrey M. Laderman